Improvement in dyeing and printing textile fabrics



AMES HARLEY, J OF LOWELL, MAS SAGHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN DYE'IN'G AND PRINTING TEXTl LE FABRIes.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent I N o. 1 7;0,62G-, dated Novembe November 27, 1875.

r30, 187.5 application filed Toall whom itonag concern Be it knownthat 1, JAMES HARLEY, Of Lowell, in the county of Middlesex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefullmprovementsin Printing and Dyeing Textile Fabrics; and I do hereby dcclare that the following is a full,clear, and exact description thereof, which will enable others skilled in the art to which it pertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, and tothe letters of reference marked thereon, which form a part of this specification. In Patent No. 168,991 issued to me October 19., 1875, I have described a method of fixing aniline greens upon prints in combination with madder and alizarine colors. My present invention is an improvement upon, and an enlargement of, the said invention; andconsists, first, in combining and fixing upon calico and similar printed and dyed goods the aniline purples and violets with madder and alizarine mordants; second, in v combining aniline purples, violets, and greens, with madder and alizarine mordants upon such printed and dyed fabrics; third, incer; tainmodifications of the process of fixing the aniline colors named above upon fabrics with the mordants suitable for dyeing up in the various madder and alizarine styles; fourth,

in the new fabrics produced by this process.

By the improvement and modification of the process I can dispense with the use of gelatine and soluble silicate in the padding or preparation of the cloth.

The printing of what are known as madder colors, either with the various preparation of madder or with the artificial dye-stufi's, such a'santhracene colors, which are applied in the same manner as madder preparations, is well known in calico printing. In such goods portions are reserved as whites. It is very desirable to combine with the usual figures produced by means of mordants and. madder colorsand their substitutes, other colors, such as methyl violet and aniline purples, so as to apply these purples simultaneously with:

mordants intended for passing through the dye-bath to be dyed up in black, red, orange, chocolate, brown, drab, and all the various madder colors. Heretofore this has notbeen practicable. By my invention it is accom-v plished. The purples are'first fixed upon the cloth, so as to pass through the ordinary dungiug and dyebath, in combination with mordants intended for dyeing up the various madder andalizarine colors. By the method pursued in fixing the purples in my process it n can be applied and the goods passed through the dye-bath without either affecting theother colors or being itself affected. In fact, the portions to which the purples are applied pass through the dye-bath just as the white porltions do in ordinary dyeing with madder, igarancine, alizarine, and the like dye-stuffs. .Of course, the purples need not fill all the portions not covered by the madder-color mordants, but any part or figure may be reseryed as white in the usual manner, or it may have an aniline green applied on certain parts. This part of my invention, therefore, consists in applying to textile fabrics, especially those made of cotton, particular prepwith mordants intended for passing through the dye-bath to be dyed up in red, orange, pink, chocolate, brown, drab, black, or other color, tint, or shade obtained in madder styles. The invention also consists of a new style of printed goods-namely, a print having in com bination, aniline purples with one or'more madder colors. This combination of colors enables the calico-printer to produce very, pleasing effects, especially in what are known as robe styles.

The following description will enable others to make and use my invention.

In the first place, I pass my cloth through the following solutions previous to printing:

color I take four and a half (4%) gallons extract of sumac, standing 26 Twaddell; six

pounds starch; boil ten minutes; and when half cold I add two and a half pounds tartaric arations of aniline purples simultaneously Gelatine, standing at 29 of Twaddells hy-,

above are mixed together and the cloth passed through them at once. To make my purple acid, one pound oxalic acid, and one ponnd I take clo th know n to pninters as eloththat i aniline purple. This is printed won 'the cloth has receiveda.zxmadderableach,i andjipa'ss t, l already passed through the abovesolution, throughasolution ofchlorateof potash stand in combination with regular nordants. By ing at 2Twaddell, dry itpand it is ready for this means I get an insoluble tannate o fygela printing. Pass it onto the printing-machine, tine. After the goods are dried and aged one where the nordauts intended for dyeing and night I pass theinfthrough' a solution of silithe aniline greenwr the green and purple, are cate of soda at 2 Twaddelhand heated to printed at once-that is, at the same gtnne. 180 Fahrenheit, or there-about. The goods The Icloth ispassed throughabox, -knownas are then \vellfwashed and dyed to suitthe* a'n aging-box, andfban tlienbe passed: p patterns,with difl'erentproportiousofalizarine,. through silicate of soda at2 Twaddelhand s l garaucine, sumac, bark, berries, andsuch standing at 1809 Fahrenheit or thereabouty 1 1 other materials as are ordinarily employed in Tho -pieces are then washedand dyed. w i 1 this style of work, as well understood bycom- IdO HOli limit myself to these proportions, W j petentdyers. as they will have to be varied to suit thepat 1 I do not limit myself to the exact materials tern. p f p i p a or proportions givenabove, as an expert dyer Afterhavingbeenpassedthroughthesilieate1 H and hemist may readily substitute -eqaiva- "the g'reen and'pnrpl'e are suificientlyfixedto lentmaterials formanyl of them. pass throughthewdyeing and soaping pera The A essential ieature of my process contion. p y p f I sists in fixing upon thel cloth,fat the same; i havenamed in *therabovelformula'whatiis p time or before being placed in the dye beek, known 'as -pure aniline purple; blititheflsfilfie thepurples named or theirequivalents, so process isapplicableto any of the anilinejp'ur-j r p thattheyneitherinterfere with,nor arethen ples "and violets, taking: ll'ihjfi corresponding. 1

selves injuredby, the subsequent process of strength dfweach. 1 1 1 r dyeing-and finishing the goods. .1 The "aniline Tosuin up'and distinguishthisniysflpresent p violets mayibeused instead of purples. This invention "from inyformer invention, and from 1 feature is also applicable to those indigo what was known:priortojmy-said forrne styles in which mordants are applied by'the vention, I will state whatfare the special printingqnachine. l y features. Inthef general process aiflkingranji The purples produced byniy process pass" anilinedye 'upon a fabric, sdthatit canjpassj through the bath just as thewhites do ordi- 1 through a .rnadder, g'ara'neine, allizarine pior u narily, and the dyeing and finishing take similar dye-bath,forwhich "mordalntsfarefiree p i, place justasl if the portions containing the ;qui're'd, "without being injured itself or injurrj r 1 purple had been white. 1 i-n g thefdyesto be taken frorn th'e dye-bath, j. I Insteadof the forinulai'givenabove, which I have obviaited themecessity ofplthe re el er i isfsubstantially thatof m'y forme'r pat-cutter gelatine. I have succeeded in fixing; upon preparing the clothfor flxingthe anilinecdl- "cloth aniline purpleswandviole'ts in coinbina g r .ors, Ifind*thattheYollowingfis simpler. Itis tion withthevarious inaddercolors. srlj ha've applicableas "well'to aniline greens'a'sto "animade the r nner caziinbination *in the? linepurples andyiolets. p l fabric of aniline purplesyviolets,greens, y p 1 I take two hundred pounds of s'imac, *to madder, "or alizarine colors. Thisjgivtes my. which is added one hundredand fifty "gallons invention very"great importancetodihe calico y of water,and;boil the miirtureanhonror so,Z "printer. The varietywnd irichnes's of every a then put upon a filter. After being hltered design is greatly increasedQand.theweifectl the sumac-liquor is boaeaaawn 'm stand at. ive *oontrastsof the"c610r immensely height 1 3 20 Twaddellsjh'ydrometer. For my g're'en en'ed. 1 I 1 p color, Itake at the rateof ten gallons of su- It isobvious 'that in finingthe aniline color a i 1 mac-liquorstanding =at20 Twadde1l, t-wogal upon the cl'oth no chemicalinnstjl be i left n lons acetic acid at 10Twaddell,twelyepounds jthat p'ortion'of theclothuiponwliichthe i of starch. Then the whole is boiled. When line color is fixed whim-would \asla p i itxreaches about 180 Fahrenheit Taddat the dant tofta'ke colorfi'omthefmadder or'aliaarme rate of ten ounces tartaric acid to thegallon, f dye-"bath,- as suchwouldcausethe spoiling of and when cooled down to about 120 Fahrenthe Ea'nilin'e 'colors, "and they wonld. not pass heit I addat the rateof two'ounces of "oxalic ith'rough the dye-baithbwithont being afi'ected f I acid to thegallon-,and when quite cold I addj! or changed in eolor. p i f I at the rateof three ounces ofanilinegreenp For fixingth'e aniline *c'olors "I liave in'a n'ed chemically pure to the l'gallon. The color is the snmac l preparationf 'a bove described for I 'then rj'eady for printingon thecloth. p jfthe jr'eason that Ideern itjthe:cheapest and To make my purple, I take seven galbest'of 'itsclassof substances hntiexpfert dyr a lons sumac li'quor standing M20 Twaddell, -ers'andchemists willreadily'understandi thalt and three gallons acetic acid at 10 lwaddell, l ether similar preparations may bel 'used and ten pounds ofstarch. Boil the whole,- a'nd equivalents*andsubstitutes. .I ,"therefore, dol 1 when cooledlto140Fahrenheit I add atthe not li'mit myselftotherexactmaterialslor prm rate of eight ounces tartaric acid, and four ;portions,so1ong as the efi'ects*producedalre ounces aniline purple to the gallon. This color! substantially the same orequivalent. is" now readyfor printin'gon the cloth. i Having thus' described my inventionfwhat on a 170,626 I i s an aniline purple, substantially such as described, in combination with one or more madder colors.

4. The combination of aniline purple upon fabrics with m ordants suitable for dyeing with garancine, alizarine, and similar dye -stuffs, substantially as set forth.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing as my own invention I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JAMES HARLEY. Witnesses:

.ALBERT M. MOORE, JEROME B. MELVIN. 

